Recipes Project - Research Presented at Scientiae and SSHM 2016
Recipes Round-up:
Katherine AllenLeave a comment
by Katherine Allen
In early July I attended two conferences: Scientiae (on early modern science), and the Society for the Social History of Medicine
(SSHM) conference. Both had an impressive range of scholarship, and it
was exciting to see recipes featured so prominently. Included here are
some of my thoughts on the research, sources, and challenges currently
being tackled by recipe historians. Scientiae
Scientiae was held at St. Anne’s College (Univ. Oxford) and the theme
was disciplines of knowing in the early modern world. This conference
was interdisciplinary, and brought together scholars working on more
traditional aspects of the history of science, alongside those exploring
the histories of magic, alchemy, medicine, music, and religion.
In the panel on medicine in early modern Europe, Tillmann Taape’s
presentation on alchemical medical guides in early modern Germany
reinforced the idea that printed distillation guides were used by ‘the
common man’, and his texts included herbal sections with registers of
diseases and medical recipes. I discovered that waters had ‘bad
attitudes’, and that distilling was seen as a way of making the water
‘obey’ the craftsman.
I spoke on the continued practice of distilling household medicine in
early eighteenth-century England. I stressed the continued importance
of printed distillation guides as sources of technical instruction for
domestic practitioners, and that distilling medicine was done primarily
as a leisure activity with the products used to supplement a family’s
medical care. Distillation figures in Ambrose Cooper’s ‘The Complete Distiller’ (1757)
In a session on ‘understanding the vegetable world’ Rachel Koroloff introduced us to the travnik, a challenging term used to simultaneously describe an herbal manuscript, an herbalist, and an herbal collection in 17th
C Muscovy. The term originated in the 1630s with the Tsar ordering
apothecaries to source plants for the palace’s medical stores. The travniki
as texts included recipes, and balanced Russian folklore and
supernatural beliefs with a hybrid version of Galenic medicine. Rachel
argued that there was an assumed base knowledge of the plants listed in travniki and that this rested on the presumption of the travnik as an individual with expertise in herbal knowledge. Medicine in its Place: SSHM 2016
The SSHM conference was held at the University of Kent and had
well-balanced temporal scope on spaces within medical history. I found
the panels on approaches to research (the place of digital history in
medicine and one on social media) particularly thought-provoking and
inspiring.
I organised a panel on 17th and 18th C domestic medicine. This panel included my research on the evolving material history of 18th C recipe collections with the commercialisation of medicine, and the incorporation of newsprint
and proprietary medicine advertisements into these personalised books.
One particular challenge of this research is determining from where
recipes were sourced, given that citations referencing print/newsprint
were not commonplace. Newsprint in 18th C Manuscript Recipe BooksAnne Stobart spoke on Margaret Boscawen’s 17th
C plant notebook, and the links between the garden and the kitchen in
household healthcare. She challenged the historiographical idea that
ingredients were readily and freely collected from the garden and
countryside and argued that Boscawen was concerned about the
availability of plants in her locality. A question I found interesting
for Anne was how she (and contemporaries) distinguishes between ‘wild’
and ‘the garden’. Culpeper Garden. Post-conference visit to Leeds Castle, Kent.Sally Osborn highlighted the far-reaching networks used by 18th
C recipe collectors to share medical knowledge; these included
familial, social, and political networks which were used to build social
credit. She suggested that tried and trusted recipes acquired from
family and other correspondents may have been valued and chosen over
other recipes, like those collected from print sources.
In a panel on landscapes, Sophie Greenway
examined the post-war shift of the British garden from a place of
production to one of leisure. In 1950s magazines, advertisements
encouraged women to purchase efficient kitchen appliances so that they
could spend recreational time in their gardens. Paradoxically, this
‘aspirational literature’ featured this message alongside recipes for
desserts like blancmange and blackcurrant jelly, which suggests that a
woman’s time was best spent in the kitchen. I found this paper valuable
for thinking about recipes used alongside advertising, as well as the
relationship of print with the domestic space. The Household in 1950s Magazine Advertising
In a roundtable discussion on digital history, Lisa Smith represented the collaborative work being done here at The Recipes Project, as well as the transcription efforts over at EMROC and Shakespeare’s World.
Lisa emphasised that in the digital projects, the message board is
useful for attracting new transcribers, encouraging discussions, and
demonstrating the value placed on close reading and deeper engagement
with recipes.
I thoroughly enjoyed my ‘conference holiday’ and these papers
represent the range of sources, topics, and temporal contexts with which
recipe historians are currently engaging. And, it is on digital
platforms like this that we can share our research, collaborate, and
explore new avenues of inquiry on recipes.