- 1Division
of Chemical Engineering, Department of Civil, Environmental and Natural
Resources Engineering, Luleå University of Technology, 97187, Luleå,
Sweden.
- 2Department of Chemical Sciences, University of Naples "Federico II", Naples, Italy.
- 3Biotechnology Laboratory, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, 15700, Athens, Greece.
- 4Department of Chemical Sciences, University of Naples "Federico II", Naples, Italy. vfaraco@unina.it.
Abstract
Cosmeceuticals
are cosmetic products containing biologically active ingredients
purporting to offer a pharmaceutical therapeutic benefit. The active
ingredients can be extracted and purified from natural sources
(botanicals, herbal
extracts, or animals) but can also be obtained biotechnologically by
fermentation and cell cultures or by enzymatic synthesis and
modification of natural compounds. A cosmeceutical ingredient should
possess an attractive property such as anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory,
skin whitening, anti-aging, anti-wrinkling, or photoprotective activity,
among others. During the past years, there has been an increased
interest on the enzymatic synthesis of bioactive esters and glycosides
based on (trans)esterification, (trans)glycosylation, or oxidation
reactions. Natural bioactive compounds with exceptional theurapeutic
properties and low toxicity may offer a new insight into the design and
development of potent and beneficial cosmetics. This review gives an
overview of the enzymatic modifications which are performed currently
for the synthesis of products with attractive properties for the
cosmeceutical industry.
KEYWORDS:
Anti-aging;
Anti-inflammatory; Anti-microbial; Anti-oxidant; Anti-wrinkling;
Bacterial; Feruloyl esterases; Fungal; Glycosidases; Laccases; Lipases;
Photoprotective; Proteases; Skin whitening; Tannases; Transferases
