Biomolecules. 2017 May 12;7(2). pii: E40. doi: 10.3390/biom7020040.
- 1
- Centre of Innovative Biotechnological Investigations "NANOLAB", 197/2 Vernadsky Pr., Moscow 119571, Russia. korkina@cibi-nanolab.com.
- 2
- Medena AG., Industriestrasse 16, CH-8910 Affoltern-am-Abis, Switzerland. wolfgang.mayer@medena.ch.
- 3
- Medena AG., Industriestrasse 16, CH-8910 Affoltern-am-Abis, Switzerland. chiara.deluca@medena.ch.
Abstract
Recently,
aggressive advertisement claimed a "magic role" for plant stem cells in
human skin rejuvenation. This review aims to shed light on the
scientific background suggesting feasibility of using plant cells as a
basis of anti-age cosmetics. When meristem cell cultures obtained from medicinal plants
are exposed to appropriate elicitors/stressors (ultraviolet, ultrasound
ultraviolet (UV), ultrasonic waves, microbial/insect metabolites, heavy
metals, organic toxins, nutrient deprivation, etc.), a
protective/adaptive response initiates the biosynthesis of secondary
metabolites. Highly bioavailable and biocompatible to human cells,
low-molecular weight plant secondary metabolites share
structural/functional similarities with human non-protein regulatory
hormones, neurotransmitters, pigments, polyamines, amino-/fatty acids.
Their redox-regulated biosynthesis triggers in turn plant cell
antioxidant and detoxification molecular mechanisms resembling human
cell pathways. Easily isolated in relatively large quantities from
contaminant-free cell cultures, plant metabolites target skin ageing
mechanisms, above all redox imbalance. Perfect modulators of cutaneous
oxidative state via direct/indirect antioxidant action, free radical
scavenging, UV protection, and transition-metal chelation, they are
ideal candidates to restore photochemical/redox/immune/metabolic
barriers, gradually deteriorating in the ageing skin. The industrial
production of plant meristem cell metabolites is toxicologically and
ecologically sustainable for fully "biological" anti-age cosmetics.
KEYWORDS:
RNS;
ROS; UV; cosmetics; environmental stress; meristem plant cells; plant
metabolites; polyphenols; skin photoageing; skin rejuvenation
